Tourist destination
Balinese DTTT
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 | Badung |
 | Denpasar |
 | Gianyar |
 | Buleleng |
 | Bangli |
 | Consisting of rugged mountains in the north, lush paddy fields in the south and coastal sandy beaches, Tabanan lies between the regencies of Badung in the east and Jembrana in the west. |
 | Karangasem |
 | Klungkung |
 | Jembrana |
BADUNG
Located in the southernmost part of Bali is the regency of Badung, the island's most intensely populated region, where Denpasar, the island's capital and bustling metropolis thrives, and where Bali's world-famous beach resorts are the star of the tourist industry. The area stretches from the central highlands in the north through an isthmus to the club-footed Nusa Dua Peninsula, also known as Bukit Badung.
The landscape of the Peninsula consists of an elevated limestone plateau, which differs from that of the month, where rich volcanic soil nourish the lush vegetation. Kuta and Jimbaran are situated in the north and west of the peninsula respectively.. Sanur is in the east and the famous Nusa Dua resort area is on the eastern tip of the peninsula itself.
Kuta
Kuta's claim to fame owes much to two things : its beach (originally Bali's best) and the simply magnificent sunset. Apart from surfing on its huge breakers and strolling for miles on the pearly white beach, shopping is a must with the wide variety and number of shops and street vendor selling rattan bags, batik shirts and range of other interesting mementos. Street-side cafes are ideal for people-watching while the numerous restaurants offer cuisines from around the world. Nightlife is vibrant : pubs and discos are popular watering hotels for revelers.
Beach bungalows first opened in Kuta in the 1930's but mass tourism did not start here until the late 60's. During this period, Kuta boomed, becoming were turned into losmen, then into hotels. T-shirts sold on the beach were replaced by a thriving garment and handicraft industry. The hippies either left or stuck it rich, and Kuta has become one of the most dynamic places in Indonesia : a place to encounter new ideas and lifestyles and a place to experience all manner of pleasures.
Nusa Dua
Nusa Dua and Tanjung Benoa are Bali's other beach resorts that boast of swaying coconut trees and the clear blue sea. Some of the most famous hotels in Asia are to be found here : among them the Hilton, the Hyatt and Club Med.
Their neo-Balinese architecture (giant split gates, huge statues and halls) complements the beautiful natural surroundings to provide all the ingredients of a tropical paradise.
Nusa Dua differs geologically from the rest of the Bukit Peninsula. In place of cliffs, sandy soil descents to a long white beach stretching from Nusa Dua proper all the way to Tanjung Benoa harbor, five kilometers to the north. The beach at Nusa Dua is sheltered by coral reef, creating an ideal family beach, while Tanjung Benoa specializes in water sports.
Other Places of Interest
Another resort to the south of Kuta is Tuban. Originally part of Kuta, it now claims an independent status. to the west of Kuta are the new resorts of Petitenget (with its beautiful temple), Canggu and Seseh. Most of the places of interest in the northern part of Badung regency are on the main roads leading out of Denpasar to the north and west.
Just outside Denpasar, on the road westwards to Tabanan, is the village of Kapal, home to a small earthenware industry. But Kapal is better known for the Pura Sadha temple, with its multi-tiered prasadha shrine. And Pura Puseh temple has some interesting Ramayana relief's.
Further west is the little town of Mengwi, which has one of the grandest temples of the island, Taman Ayun. Until the end of the last century, Mengwi was one of the main island kingdoms, and this temple was built around 1740. Pura Taman Ayun is a water garden tmeple, symbolizing the cosmic union of sea and mountain. You can even row in the moat in a rented boat. The architectural structure has three parts, duplicating the order of the cosmos-nista (impure / demonic) ; madia (middle / human) ; and utama (godly) corresponding to the three successive courts. Most sacred (utama) is the inner court. the shrines are made and decorated in the finest traditions of Balinese carving.
To the north of Mengwi is the famous Monkey Forest at Sangeh, set in the heart of the only primary forest in the southern Bali. This forest consist entirely of pala (nutmeg) trees. The monkeys living here are considered sacred, an association from the Ramayana epic, where in Prince Rama allied himself with the mongkey hero Hanoman to attack Alengka. some of the forest trees are also considered sacred and hence used to make barong. After Sangeh, the roads heads northwards to Kintamani past some beautiful scenery near Plaga.
during the dry season, the scrub and bushes give Bukit Badung a weird Mediterranean air. No rice paddies are to be seen anywhere. The plateau rises up to 200 m above sea level, ringed to the south and southwest by cliffs with small beaches. The view over the white sand and breakers is the best at sunsets. Bukit Badung is famous among surfers for its long, white rollers. The best surfing in Suluban, Labuhan Sait and Bingi. For hikers, paths run along much of the cliff, while the inland region has many prehistoric caves including Gua Selonding.
The famous Pura Luhur Uluwatu temple is an architectural marvel situated on a headland at the western tip of the plateau. According to local tradition, the first Uluwatu temple was built in the 11th century. In the 16th century, it was rebuilt into its current state. The temple has some of the most exquisite architecture in Bali. The carvings made in the unusually hard coral stone have withstood time well. The split entrance gates is shaped as curved Garuda (eagle) wings. Inside, a second gate is topped by the monstrous head of Kala, with two statues of Gana at its foot
Denpasar
During the days of sailing ships during the last century, the importance of a port depended on its access to the sea-faring routes and its control of the trade in opium, weapons and manufactured products. Denpasar enjoyed these advantages tremendously. Located in the center of the southern rice fields, it was linked to the ports of Kuta in the west and Sanur and Benoa in the east. Slowly, the power of Denpasar grew. The power of Denpasar princes reached its Golden Age at the end of the last century when they defeated the kingdom of Mengwi with the help of Tabanan.
The arrival of the Dutch in the early 20th century, however, put an end to Balinese self-rule. However, rebellion broke out in 1906 with thousand of courageous Balinese warriors putting up a bloody "puputan" fight against the Dutch colonialists. As it was a battle of rifles against the kris (short daggers), the Dutch ruthlessly massacred the Balinese. Today, at the site of the tragedy at Puputan Square in Badung stands a monument in honour of the Balinese nobles who died.
After the war, Denpasar continued to grow under Dutch rule, thanks to its strategic location.
Roads were constructed and Benoa harbor and an airport were built. These facilities made Denpasar the nucleus of the island's communications system and it grew to become the most populated part of the island.
from a population of just 15,000 sixty years ago, it has expanded dramatically to 400,000, plus another 100,000 who are residents of Kuta and Nusa Dua. Following the expansion of Ngurah Rai Airport, Denpasar became the Balinese capital in 1958.
The most interesting feature of Denpasar is its combination of tradition with modernity. The old provincial kingdoms and villages of the densely populated rice plain also perforate the urban landscape. While functioning very much in the traditional way, these, "villages in the city" still have their exclusive banjar neighborhood, dance groups, and temple festivals. These days, residents often make a living by renting rooms to newcomers from other regions of Bali and Indonesia.
This blending of styles has sometimes resulted in a stunning cohabitation of architectural genres. Hidden behind the harsh rows of Chinese shops along Jalan Gajah Mada in the old city centre are traditional compound with much of their original architecture preserved, kori gates and temples. These features give this city a historical look rarely found in other Indonesian cities. But with no heritage conservation policy at present, there is a strong possibility that much of the ancient architecture may soon find itself replaced by contemporary concrete structures.
A consequence of the city's rapid growth has been its sprawling nature. Since the road networks are not concentrated at the original urban centre, urbanization tends to follow the main roads out of the city to housing projects 20 km away, leaving large expanses of rice-growing areas untouched in the middle of the city.
Scarcity of land has also created some architectural anomalies. City residents, no longer with enough room to build the complete set of buildings found in a traditional Balinese compound, have to make do with less. Some build smaller shrines from which they address the ancestors of their home villages, while others build shrines on the second or third floors. The intention is to retain, al least outwardly, the Balinese architecture. For want of a real Balinese house, many will make do with Balinese decorative roofs or carved panel illustrating the epics myths of Ramayana and Mahabharata. The result is unusual, but has a charm of its own.
Bali merges with Indonesia in Denpasar. The capital hosts all government administration offices as well as most universities and higher learning institutions, home to about 25,000 students. The local economy is geared to the needs of the nearby resort of Sanur, Kuta and Nusa Dua where many residents commute to daily. The dynamism of the local economy has brought not only Balinese from other parts of the island, but newcomers from all over the country to Denpasar as investors, managers, even laborers. In Denpasar, ethnic homogeneity is a thing of the past.
Non-Balinese now make up around 30 % of the city population. These are severalJavanese Kampung, Chinese and Arab / Punjabi areas. On the whole, except in the "old villages of the city" which are solely Balinese, the population is very mixed. The muslim call to prayer, the rumble of the baleganjur orchestra and the persons sermon represent just some of the sounds in the Denpasar day. This variety has important cultural consequences. The Indonesian language is increasingly taking over from Balinese in daily communication.
Denpasar is where the Balinese scholars translate Indian holy books, new prayers are taught, and Hinduism reinterpreted. It is also home to a new cosmopolitan class of Western-oriented Balinese yuppies. The contradictions are immense there.
Denpasar is not an easy place to visit. To see the old city, take a drive around the old villages of Kedaton, Sumerta, Tonja and especially Kesiman, whose brick-style shrines and gates are the simplest yet most beautiful in Bali. The Maospahit temple on the road to Tabanan dates back to the 14th century, another marvel of brick architecture.
Other beautiful monuments include the temple and palace of Kesiman, Penambangan temple (near Pemecutan palace), and Satria temple, with its nearby bird market. Pemecutan, Kesiman and Badung (now the name of the nearby regency) were the three "united kingdoms" on the teritory of Denpasar.
Representing the modern tradition is Pura Jagatnatha, located in the heart of the city. It was built in the 70's to be the "territorial temple" of Denpasar, an open monument to modern Balinese Hinduism. Its main padmasana shrine, or seat of the "Supreme Siwa", embodies the new importance given to the concept of the One God in Balinese religion.
A visit to Bali Museum, located right next to Jagatnatha temple, is a must. It has the finest collections of Balinese antiquities. Of particular interest is the stylistic simplicity of the item in its 30's collection.
The overly decorative Baroque style of Balinese art is clearly a recent historical import.
Denpasar is also where Bali displays its modern image. The Taman Budaya, the Arts Centre to the east of the city, is a complex dedicated to the preservation of Balinese culture. It contains the gigantic Ksirarnawa amphitheater and a museum with an important collection of paintings and sculptures from the period of Balinese renewal, but no contemporary art.
As a modern metropolis, Denpasar offers a range of shopping centers, restaurant and food centers. For those interested in textile and handicraft, go to Pasar Badung and Pasar Kumbasari markets, located on either side of the Badung river in the old city center. The new center has moved south to the Sudirman and Diponegoro roads, Matahari, Ramayana, Tiara Dewata and Libi Department Stores, as well as Sudirman Mall, cater to all the need of tourist and local customers, all at fixed prices. And for food, the south of Denpasar, Jalan Teuku Umar offers a complete range of restaurants.
Sanur
Administratively, Sanur is included in the city of Denpasar. But with white sand, coconut trees, and some of the best international hotels on the whole island just a few meters away, Sanur was Bali's first beach resort. Only a few hundred meters inland, it is a village traditionally run by the Brahmins-the priestly caste of Bali.
The Sanur area, the beach front of Denpasar now extending from Sanur westwards to the Suwung marshes and Serangan island, is steeped in history.
The Blanjong, written in Sanskrit in 913, is the oldest inscription of its kind in Bali. It tells of the founding of Buddhist monastery. Other traces of contact with the outside world persist to this day. The villages of Renon, on the rod to Denpasar, and Semawang, near Sanur Beach hotel, still host a Baris Cina dance, with warrior wearing Portuguese-like 16th century helmets, perhaps the sign of early European contact.
Sanur was for centuries an important trading place. Nearby Serangan island has a Moslem community of Bugis fishermen, who have descendants from the famous seafaring traders of old. But it is best known for the inland Brahmins. communities of Taman and Anggarkasih inside elaborately gated compounds, who are believed to use magic. These people were also staunchly independent, and when the Dutch landed in 1906 on their way to Denpasar, they allowed the troops to pass by peacefully, having a grudge against their own ruler, thus avoiding the "Puputan" tragedy.
Tourism in Sanur began in the 1930's. Expatriates, writers and other luminaries had beach bungalows there. After independence, the Dutch painter Le Mayeur lived there and gained fame for his affair with and marriage to Ni Polok, one of the best dancers of his day. Le Mayeur's impressionistic work. while heavily damaged, can be seen at Le Mayeur Museum near Grand Bali Beach hotel.
Donald Friend, one of Australia's great artists, also lived in Sanur until the 60's. Sanur was where the Indonesian government made its first attempt at mass tourism : the construction of the Bali Beach bunker, built using Japanese war reparations. The hotel burned down in 1993, but has now been restored even grander than before with the addition of a Bali-style roof. The Hyatt, built in the 70's, is famous for its garden and lobby, built like a huge traditional Balinese wantilan.
The charm of Sanur lies in the relative tranquility of its social scene. It is a resort for families or visitors wanting the right mix of beach and Balinese life. It also has the immense advantage of being much nearer inland tourist spots just half an hour from Ubud. Another advantage of Sanur compared with Kuta is its quieter beaches, making it a favorite walking place.
The main road passes inland, not along the beach varies from black sand in Padang Galak to white sand in the stretch from Grand Bali Beach to Semawang. Further west, the coast turns to swamp prior to Suwung village, the location of a small pier for travel to Serangan island. This island is currently developing into a popular resort area.
It has several attractions for tourists, most famous being the Pura Sakenan temple, built in the coral-stone architecture of the coast. The temple comes to life on Kuningan day, when thousands of worshippers cross the narrow straits to pay their respects to Empu Kuturan, 10th century reformer of Balinese Hinduism.
There is also a turtle hatchery on the island. Turtle meat used to be a favorite Balinese delicacy. But in the 60's and 70's turtle-shell became a favorite material for making jewelry and boxes, and the tortoises all but disappeared, hence the hatchery. But the local Bugis fishermen have lost their main livelihood, now living the travel as far as Eastern Indonesia and the Timor Sea to catch fish and sea shells.
The Treasures of Denpasar
the capital of Bali is often considered a sprawling and noisy city that has attracted thousands of inhabitants from the rest of the island. It is also the first stop-over point for any visitor to Bali.
Arriving at Ngurah Rai Airport, one is struck immediately by the warmth of the hosts. The city is indeed filled with treasures from its rich and colorful past. The airport itself is named after a freedom fighter, Ngurah Rai, who led a small band of soldiers towards the end of 1946, in the struggle against the colonial rulers of that time, the Dutch. All 94 soldiers led by Ngurah Rai were slaughtered, now remembered by a monument near the airport. The site where the fight took place is now called Margarana. The 20th November is designated "Margarana Heroes' Day" and celebrated with parades and other public ceremonies.
The center of life in the city revolves around Puputan Square. In the center of the square is a bronze memorial for those who lost their lives in the one-sided struggle with the Dutch. At one corner of the square stands a 5-metre stone statue dedicated to the "Great Teacher" - Shiva. What makes this unusual is that the face to the east is Indra (Iswara), to the south it is Brahma, to the north Vishnu, and to the west Mahadewa. Also within the square is the contemporary looking Pura Jagatnatha, the "Temple of the Lord of the World". Within it is an ornate statue of the Supreme God, Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa.
The nearby Bali Museum was established in1932. Archaeological finds, dance masks, handicraft, paintings, as well as architectural illustrations of the various Balinese temples, provide an unrivaled exhibition of the culture.
Go to the three story Central Market in the early morning, when it is a hive of activity. The whole of the first floor is devoted to meat and fish, dairy products, as well as flowers. If looking for spices, head for the second floor. Handicrafts are on the third.
There are several other markets well worth visiting in the capital city, including the Kumbasari, just across from the Central Market. For souvenir hunters, two streets, Jalan Gajah Mada and Jalan Thamrin, have all you will need to remember your trip to Bali. Specialty and Art shops abound here and all over in Denpasar. Visit the Bird Market (Pasar Burung) for a closer look at several fine feathered creatures, as well as cats, dogs, snakes and fish.
The night market (pasar malam) usually starts in late afternoon and is a favorite for eating in a relaxed atmosphere as you watch the world go by. Make your way towards Sanur and you will find the Niti Mandala Civic Centre, home to several government offices, including the Bali Government Tourist Office. Interesting to note is the architectural style used in constructing the buildings, adapting age-old Balinese designs to the modern era.
Finally, some other interesting places to visit in Sanur are the Art Market (Pasar Seni) and the Beach market. Halfway between Denpasar and Sanur is the handicraft centre Sanggraha Kriya Asti.
Gianyar
The second most populated region of Bali, Gianyar is the cultural heart of the island. The highland town of Ubud, in particular, has acquired a reputation as a center of art after several foreign artists settled there in the 1920's and 30's. Geographically, the region is quite diverse. While clove, coffee and vanilla are grown in the highlands, paddy is the most common crop on the lowlands. The old harbors of Ketewel and Kramas are fishing villages.
Travelling by road from Denpasar to Ubud, the first village one reaches is Batubulan, which is famous for its stone carvings. Actually, most of the stone sculptures you see around Bali are almost certainly made in Batubulan.
These works are displayed all along the main road. The popular door-guardian statues of volcanic tuff, once exclusively use in the temples and palaces, are now exported overseas. Another specialty of Batubulan is the Barong dance which is performed daily here. The dance symbolizes the never-ending battle between good and evil. The Pura Puseh Batubulan, a beautiful temple, is also worth visiting while in Batubulan.
Just after Batubulan, Celuk and nearby Singapadu are the centers for Balinese goldsmiths and silversmiths. More than 40 jewelry workshops are located along the road from Batubulan to Celuk. The jewelry is exported world wide. Singapadu is also well known for Topeng and Barong mask making.
After Celuk, the main road heads to Sukawati, famous for its art market (pasar seni) and dalangs (puppeteers). Set in a two floor building, the market sells everything from statues to dance customers, all at reasonable prices. At night when the art market is closed, a night market provides a good selection of Indonesian food. Sukawati village is also a center for the manufacture of wind chimes. The puppeteers of Sukawati are in much demand all over the island. they often travel to perform at ceremonial occasions, and are said to have inherited their skills passed down from one generation to another. Further along the road towards Ubud is the village of Mas. Famous for woodcarving, Mas offers a myriad of wooden items. The main road of the town is lined with dozens of workshop. Mas is also of historical significance to Bali's history as it was here that the great priest Nirartha had his hermitage in the Pura Taman Pule.
After Mas, you enter the area of Ubud, often regarded as the cultural heart of Bali. "Ubud" is drived from the word "ubad" which means medicine as the town supplied medicinal herbs during olden days. A former principality, Ubud has several palaces and brahmin mansions, as well as beautiful houses built in the Gianyar architectural style. The modern Balinese art movement began here (see article titled "Paintings"), when artist first began to abandon purely religious and court scenes for scenes of everyday life. ubud is home to many respected local and western artists.
the cultural image of Ubud is paramount to the people as home to the best art museums in the country. The Puri Lukisan, a Museum of Fine Arts established in the 50's, displays art from the 30's and 50's, as well as fine examples of modern Balinese art.
The Neka Museum has a diverse and interesting collection of mainly modern art. it also includes an excellent and varied display of work by western artists who have resided in Ubud through the years. ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum Art) at Jl. Pengosekan should not be missed as it contains pieces by established artists.
Ubud is in ideal place to see Balinese dance. Legong, Ramayana, Baris, Kecak, and the Fire Dance, are performed nightly in or around the Ubud area.
Ubud gives you the opportunity to see the real Bali. It is a place for leisurely strolls through rice terraces, lush forests, breath taking gorges, and deserted swimming holes, all within walking distance from the center of Ubud. You must visit the Monkey Forest - walk along Monkey Forest Road from Ubud, down into a dense forest where you will find a bunch of happy monkeys waiting for passing tourists. A word of warning : the monkeys are happy but just a little naughty, so hold on to your cameras.
Ubud market has kept much of its traditional charm, with squatting Balinese sellers haggling loudly among spices and vegetables. The market also sells handicrafts, many made in neighboring villages of Pengosekan, Tegalalang, Payangan and Peliatan.
Gianyar has some of the most important archeological sites on on the island. The majority is located in the Pejeng area, four kilometers from Ubud,. It is home to one of South East Asia's oldest artifacts, a huge kettledrum known as the "Moon of Pejeng", a relic from the Bronze Age originating from Dongson, Vietnam, and a nearby archeological museum. The village also has two ancient temples, the Pura Pusering Jagat and Pura Kebo Edan.
The road to Pejeng and Gianyar is the site of the Goa gajah. The "elephant cave" is carved into the rock face and reached by a flight of steps. It probably dates back to the 9-12th centuries and shows elements of both Hindu and Buddhist use. You can enter the cave through the huge mouth of a demon. In front of the cave are to bathing pools with spring water gushing from spouts held by female figures.
A kilometer from Goa Gajah is Yeh Pulu. After a short walk through rice terrace, you will arrive at an ancient rock carving dating from the 14th century. The carving depicts various scenes of everyday life and the figures of elephant headed Ganesh indicate a close relationship between the two sites.
still within the district of Gianyar in the central mountains across from Trunyan is the small settlement of Tampak Siring, with its popular natural springs. The springs bubble out and are captured in bathing pools.
Bangli
The regency of Bangli is characterized by its rugged volcanic highlands with bubbling hot springs and lush paddy fields. The volcanic mountains slope down to the sea near Tianyar and Tejakula while the rice growing areas over look Klungkung and Gianyar. Numerous villages are scattered across the landscape of rice terraces, lush valleys and forests.
Travelers usually enter Bangli through Gianyar, via either Tampaksiring or the main road branching east from Gianyar through paddy fields, brick entrances along village streets, and pule and giant Banyan tress towering above you. Bangli is the source of many of Bali's rivers.
Pura Kehen
Founded in A..D. 1240, Bangli town is the sleepy administrative center, with the usual Brahmin palaces and mansions which come alive during festival days. the puri or palaces of the royal families are the attention grabbers.
The most prominent is the Puri Denpasar, the palace of the last raja of Bali who died decades ago. A pavilion of the palace has been transformed into a small hotel.
The most famous landmark of Bangli is the Pura Kehen, perhaps the most beautiful temple in the whole of Bali. As the state temple of the old Bangli kingdom, Pura Kehen occupies the site of an earlier temple which dates back to the 9th century. There are eight terraces built into the forested slope of a hill. The first five terraces are the outer courtyards ; the sixth, the lower middle court ; the seventh, the upper middle court, and the eighth, the inner jeroan.
A flight of 38 stairs leads to the meru-shaped between rows of wayang statues. Overlooking the gate is the threatening head of Kala, guardian of the netherworld. There is a magnificent shrine with eleven roofs dedicated to the god of fire, the resident temple god.
Penglipuran, two kilometers from Pura Kehen, is a small village restored by the local government to represent a "typical" Balinese village. From Bangli east wards it's a beautiful drive towards Karangasem and the Besakih "mother temple" via a seemingly unending succession of hills, valleys and rice terraces. Take the main road northwards to Kintamani and the volcanic scenery of Batur awaits the tourist - the most spectacular panorama on the island.
Batur Crater Area
Bangli's mountainous region centers around the spectacular volcanic crater ( or caldera ) of Batur, which last erupted in 1994. mount Batur itself is actually just a small volcano, but its setting is in the heart of a huge crater 14 km in diameter. Adjacent to the volcano is the large crescent-shaped Batur lake, all surrounded by the high walls of the crater rim. The important Pura Ulun Danu Batur pays homage to the life-giving quality of the lake, which is considered a sacred water catchments.
As the road rises steadily from Bangli or Tampaksiring, nothing in the surrounding grey landscape of bushes and garden plots suggests the presence of a volcano. But over one more small ridge a dizzying view awaits the eyes, encompassing the crater and beyond. from Penelokan, the main road runs right round the rim towards Kintamani, the panorama shifting as you circle around the crater.
The sheer size of the crater conjures up images of the massive eruption of the original Mount Batur that occurred tens of thousand years ago. the volcano is still active today as Balinese all over the island who still remember the great eruption of 1917 will testify. It claimed thousands of lives and destroyed hundreds of temples. Old people might tell you this was "the year when the world shook". Other eruptions have taken place since, forcing the local population to be relocated, along with several of their temples - including one of the main Bali temples, Pura Ulun Danau. Initially inside the huge crater, this temple has been relocated to the top of the ridge overlooking it. Here it now offers an impressive view of Mount Batur.
For a complete panoramic view, you can drive half the circumference of the crater along its upper rim. The highest point is Bukit Penulisan. Here, one of the most ancient of Bali's temples contains the remains of carvings from the earliest Buddhist period. From Penulisan the road continues towards Buleleng and Kubutambahan.
One very interesting excursion in Batur is the climb down the inside of the crater from Penelokan to Kedisan. You can then drive around the smaller Mount Batur, trough Songan. From Toya Bungkah, boats cross the lake to a Bali Aga village called Trunyan. This place is notorious for its mortuary traditions. Instead of cremating the dead, as Balinese do throughout most of the island, the Trunyan community leaves the bodies to decompose naturally in a special cemetery.
There are also hot springs and lodgings in Toya Bungkah. From Songan there is a beautiful trek to Tianyar to the north coast of the island. The adventurous traveler may even wish to climb Mount Batur itself.
Karangasem
During the 18th centuries, Karangasem was the most powerful kingdom in Bali but in the middle of the last century, it became a vassal of Lombok. Covering 861 sq. km, Karangasem regency is well known for its breath taking landscapes which have been formed by lava flows from Gunung Agung, the sacred mountain of Bali.
Beautiful terraced paddy fields lie at the lower southeastern slopes of the regency while coffee and clove plantations are found higher up. Salt panning and fishing are the major economic activities in the coastal areas.
Standing 3,142 meters high, Gunung Agung made disaster news on 17th March, 1963 when its crater exploded, spewing rivers of Java and hot volcanic mud down its slopes and into the sea. Ash rained over the whole island, and lava streams covering roads isolated its eastern end. Large areas of crops and many villages and temples were wiped out.
Thousands of people were either burned to death or suffocated by the searing clouds of hot gas rushing down the volcanic slopes. The villages of Sorga and Lebih, situated high on the slopes of Agung, were totally destroyed. As if by a miracle, Besakih, just six kilometers from the crater, suffered little damage. Nowadays, Mount Agung is quiet and the mother temple Pura Besakih perched 1000 meters up the slope attracts a steady stream of devotees and tourists.
Pura besakih is Bali's most important and probably best kept temple, consisting of about 30 separate temples in seven terraces that ascend up the hill. Every district in Bali has its own shrine or temple at Besakih and besides honoring Ida Sang Hyang Widi ( God Almighty ), all Balinese gods and goddesses are also honored.
If you want to climb Mount Agung, you must request permission from the temple authorities, as no one should stand higher than the temple when a ceremony is being held.
You can ascend the mountain from behind the temple or through the village of Sebudi village, near Selat. It's tough 6-8 hour climb and you are recommended to leave in the early morning and hire a guide.
Padang Bai is the port for the ferry service to Lombok. It's a sleepy fishing village situated in a perfectly sheltered bay. The beach is picturesque and quaint with a long sweep of sand where colorful boats are drawn up on the beach.
From Padang Bai the road follows a beautiful stretch inland and turns off at the mountain village of Tenganan. Tenganan is a Bali Aga village - one of the few Balinese communities to resist the Majapahit invasion of 1343.
It is walled village consisting of two rows of identical houses. This is the only place in Indonesia where double weaving ikat, Geringsing, is produced. The village is also famous for its lontar sacred books, traditional Balinese palm leaf books.
One of coastal road 13 kilometers from Tenganan is the once quiet fishing village of Candi dasa. you can expect to find plenty of accommodation, restaurants, bars, souvenir shops, and some nightlife. There are fantastic views from the headland and on a clear day Agung Mountain rises magnificently behind the range of coastal hills.
The main town and capital of the Karangasem district is Amlapura. Puri Agung Karangasem palace is an imposing reminder of the time Karangasem was a kingdom. It has a three-tiered gate and beautiful sculptured panels on the outside.
Six kilometers from Amlapura you will find the tirtaganga wate palace. This palace, built around 1947 by Amlapura's water loving king, is a place of beauty and solitude. The palace contains a network of pools and a swimming pool fed by a natural spring, surrounded by some of the most beautiful rice terraces in Bali.
North of Tirtagangga is Tulamben. SS Liberty, the American war ship sunk by the Japanese in 1942, lies just off the beach and is anywhere on this barren coast, but worth a pause on your travels.
Klungkung
Klungkung, which means "happiness" or "beauty", is Bali's smallest district. Lying on the south-eastern coast of Bali, it includes the islands of Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Ceningan. The great Unda River flows through Klungkung, passing through many scenic villages.
Klungkung town is a bustling commercial center, and it's market is the largest in Bali. However, the main tourist lures are the Kertha Gosa, the Hall of Justice, and the Bale Kambang, a floating pavilion. A magnificent example of Klungkung architecture, the Kertha Gosa was used a venue for the administration of justice by kings and priests during pre-colonial times. It is surrounded by a moat and is decorated with beautiful paintings on its ceilings, which depict tortures in hell and bliss in heaven.
The Bale Kambang ( or Floating Pavilion ) stands behind the Kertha Gosa.
Its painted ceilings depict the legend of the hero Sutasoma and his sacrifices, and of Pan and Med Brayut, known as the couple who had too many off spring. Another beautiful royal temple in Klungkung is the Pura taman Sri featuring a moat surrounded pagoda in a lush garden.
A few kilometers outside Klungkung is Kamasan village, home of Balinese traditional paintings. The themes derived from Balinese variations of the ancient Hindu epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. This style has also been adapted for large versions of the zodiac and lunar calendars. Kamasan paintings take their essential characteristics from the wayang tradition. To see a good collection of Kamasan classical paintings, visit the cross roads to Tihingan, just before Klungkung.
A few kilometers east in Goa Lawah, the Bat Cave. This cave is crammed with thousands of bats which are unseen but certainly not unheard during the day. The cave is part of a temple that is said to lead all the way to Besakih but its unlikely that anyone would be interested in investigating.
Beyond Klungkung is the coastal village of Kusamba. Kusamba is one of the embarkation points to the islands of Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan, and Nusa Ceningan. The journey from Kusamba or Sanur to these islands takes a couple of hours.
Nusa Penida
Nusa Penida has, unfortunately, acquired a somewhat eerie reputation, as it was once the place of banishment for criminals and undesirables from the Kingdom of Klungkung. Penida attracts a number of visitors for its seclusion, surf and snorkeling. Few facilities exist for tourists, just a few losmen and a number of small warung.
The island, however, has some interesting temples, including the Pura ped near Toyahpakeh and Pura Batukuning near Sewana. There is also a huge limestone cave, Goa Karangsari, about a kilometer from sewana.
Nusa Lembongan
The market town of Toyapakeh also has a ferry crossing to Nusa Lembongan. The friendly people of Lembongan have welcomed tourism. For those looking for white sandy beaches and a laidback atmosphere, Nusa Lembongan is paradise. The waters around Lembongan are crystal clear, the sand is white and the shallow coves are brimming with colorful coral and sea life, making it an ideal location for snorkeling.
The Waka Nusa Resort, run by Wakalouka Cruises, is found in a small bay along with a small nearby losmen called Mushroom Cottages, a simple retreat for surfers and travelers.
Nusa Ceningan
Nusa Ceningan, which is the smallest of the three islands, is rarely visited.
Jembrana
The least populated area of Bali, Jembrana was home of the now extinct Bali tiger. Despite having only basic tourist facilities, many attractions make Jembrana worth visiting. The main population areas are scattered along the southwestern coastal road. By road, Jembrana can be reached from Singaraja in the north and Denpasar in the southeast through Tabanan.
Enjoying a strategic location at the southwestern coast of Bali, Jembrana regency is the landing points for travelers by sea from Java island. Regular ferry services link the ports of Gilimanuk in Jembrana and Ketapang in Java. Opened in the 1970's, the ferry terminals have been upgraded to cope with the higher volume of traffic. from Gilimanuk a road leads northward to Buleleng through scenic clove and vanilla plantations.
Jembrana's population is multi religious. both mosques and Hindu temples can be found here. The towns of Belimbingsari and Palasari boast of the biggest Protestant and Catholic communities in Bali respectively. Palasari's Catholic church is arguably the most beautiful in eastern Indonesia.
The topography of the regency is as varied as its cultures. The northern half of Jembrana consist of mountains, and forms part of west Bali National Park. In the south, there are 71 kilometers of beaches. of volcanic origins, the sands on the coastline are black, but there are also some beautiful white coral beaches, especially at Medewi and some most beautiful mangrove forests. Southern Jembrana also has some of the most beautiful rice terraces on the island.
Mekepung and Perancak
The most exciting event in Jembrana is the traditional buffalo race. The regency even calls itself "the land of the Mekepung". Usually held between August and October, the Mekepung was originally held as part of the harvest festivities. The carts and buffaloes were, until quite recently, still used for transportation. The Mekepung consists of a race between two kilometer course. These days, championship events are organized under the sponsorship of the local government, which uses the race to help promote tourism.
In Perancak, a race can be arranged to order. If you like, you can be your own jockey. There is a small temple of white stones to commemorate the landing of sang Hyang Nirartha. A crocodile farm commemorates the now extinct Perancak crocodile. There is also a zoo which displays crocodiles, tigers, jalak putih, the phoenix bird of paradise and other animals.
At high tide on nearby Perancak river, small traditional jukung and sampan boats can be seen quietly sailing up the river towards Loloan, which is a unique Bali village. Inhabited by descendants of Bugis seafarers who settled here at the end of the 17th century, Loloan is predominantly Moslem in many ways.
Besides the Mekepung race, there is a cow race called Magembeng. The name of originates from the gembeng bell the cows carry around their necks. As they walk, the bell makes a sound that produces a special kind of music. The Megembeng competition is not so much about speed as about the elegance and beauty of the cows.
West Bali National Park
Covering more than 76,000 hectares, West Bali National Park is situated in two regencies : Jembrana and Buleleng. The entrance on the Jembrana side of the park is at Melaya on the Denpasar-Gilimanuk road. Visit this place if you're looking for pristine tropical nature. The park is the last natural habitat of the endangered jalak putih - fewer than fifty are believed to be left in the wild, where they are threatened by poaching. The park is also home to banteng and the deer like menjangan. The National Park contains a broad range of natural environments, from mangrove coastal forests to savanna and rainforest shelters.
To enter the National Park one must first go to the park office in Cekik. Accommodation is available in basic huts but you must bring your own bedding and utensils. Experienced guides in the office offer excursions for trekking, diving and snorkeling on the Jembrana side of the National park are not recommended for beginners.
Gilimanuk Bay
Gilmanuk's beaches are truly pristine, and there is a wide range of them : coral beaches, white and black underwater coral awaits anyone willing to dive in and go for a snorkel. There are two small islands in the bay, which are barely more than sandbars - Pulau kalong ( Bat Island ) and Pulau Burung ( Bird Island ). There is also a museum containing pre-Hindu archeology. The villages around Gilimanuk contain a mixture of Balinese, Javanese, Madurese and Bugis architecture unique to Bali. No less beautiful are the various boats belonging to these ethnic groups.
Further south, at Candikusuma, there are two temples dedicated to the legendary figure of Dang Hyang Nirartha Indra Kusuma temple and Taman Sumur Bulus. Locals are how in 1897 two Dutch officers were attracted to the place when they saw a light coming from the earth. It turned out to be a kris ( a supernatural dagger ). Candikusuma beach is known for its beautiful black sand and the gentle hills permeating the beach.
Inland from Melaya are the parallel Christian communities of Palasari ( Catholic ) and Blimbingsari ( Protestant ), built at the beginning of the century in a settlement area for Balinese who had converted to Christianity. Hills and paddy fields surround the villages. Their uniqueness, however, lies in the cultural cocktail present in churches, which mix both Gothic and Balinese architectural styles.
Delodbrawah Beach is a black sand beach, which used to be a swamp ( brawah , believed to be a favorite crocodile haunt. Believe it or not, the sand from this beach is said to cure rheumatism. To the north of the beach is mendoyo in Negara. One of the best racing grounds for the Mekepung here is found here - it can even be used in the rainy season.
Rambutsiwi Temple is on a cliff top overlooking a breathtaking panorama of paddy fields on one side and the black sandy beach on the other. Stairs allow people to get safely down onto the beach. Two caves overlook the sea, boats and seabirds hovering above. This spot is a favorite hangout for painters. The temple itself was built by Dang Hyang Nirartha. According to the legend, he made a gift of his hair to the temple. Hence the name Rambut Siwi, which literally means"Hair worship".
Medewi beach is a small resort in the southeast of Jembrana ( about midway between Gilimanuk and Denpasar ), just off the main road at Airsatang. Waves from three to seven meters in height make for perfect surfing. Small black stones are scattered over the black sandy beach, providing an unusual scene at sunset.
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